Colonsay, an island just 24 square miles, has over 260 archaeological sites. Oronsay covers just two square miles, but boasts 43 archaeological sites. Colonsay and Oronsay Heritage Trust holds a remarkable archive on the islands' heritage, which it occasionally displays in the Old Waiting Room near Scalasaig Pier.

Take a stroll around Coll and you might pass an Iron Age Fort at Feall Bay, standing stones at Totronald, a medieval and an 18th century castle on the shores of Loch Breacachadh and a ruined medieval church at Killunaig. You might come across the standing stones known as the Teller of Tales which, according to legend, have a giant buried between them. And, quite literally at the end of the road, the crofting and fishing village of Sorisdale, now abandoned except for one thatched cottage.

Tiree has some good examples of 'black houses', traditional crofts with extremely thick walls and thatched roofs. Most have been modernised, their roofs replaced and their walls painted so they are now white houses, but some retain their original thatch.

The most abundant architectural treasure-trove among Argyll's Atlantic Islands is Islay, with over 1,000 archaeological sites. Perhaps the most stirring is ruined Dunyvaig Castle, one of the strongholds of the Lords of the Isles in their heyday. It is thought that there may have been a fortification on the site as far back as the 13th century, although most of what remains dates from the 16th century and onwards.

As well as its distilleries, Islay is known for the neat, whitewashed cottages and terraces of its planned villages of the 18th & 19th centuries. There are also planned villages on the 'Slate Islands' of Seil and Luing, their trim, whitewashed cottages built by local landowners to house quarry workers.

In Scotland's Sea Kingdom, heritage touches every aspect of every life; each generation learns it anew and passes it on to their children, just as people have done here for 5,000 years or more.

In total contrast, Tobermory, the capital of Mull, dates from the same era but is a riot of colour, its bright harbour front buildings a favourite subject for photographers and artists.

For the people of Argyll's Atlantic Isles, heritage is not a cultural theme park, but an ever-present part of their lives. Every stone, every wave that washes the shore, every bird cry that pierces the evening air, every song and story, every sod turned and field left fallow, every ancient church and rubbled castle is part of that heritage.

It touches every aspect of every life; each generation learns it anew, re-interprets it, adds their own experience and passes it on to their children, just as people have done here for 5,000 years or more.

But it would be wrong to think of Argyll's islands as a cultural time warp. Their communities have deep roots, but they also have spreading branches: people still work the land and reap the sea, but they also surf the net and, on most of the islands, tourism is a vital part of the economy. The islands have adapted to changing times, just as they always have.